Ahh Paris...

Spend last weekend visiting an old friend, Andrew and his girlfriend Celine in Paris. They had just moved into a new flat on the SE side of the city and I was honored to be their first house guest. I had a great time - it was cool to see Andrew and meet Celine. We did have pretty chill weekend, which was fine by me. I just liked being there. Mostly we just people watched at cafes, walked around, had dinner etc. I think tourist stuff, is by and large, overrated. I like to do things in a place that people who live in a place do in that place.

Among the touristy things we did do, was visit the Musée Carnavalet (below) which is now a history/art museum located in a Renaissance mansion of the Marais, medieval heart of Paris. I wanted to go to the Rodin museum, which is one of the big ones i haven't been too, but unfortunately they are closed. The Musée Carnavalet was home to a certain Madame de Sevigne's for nearly twenty years.

The Madame de Sevigne was married at a young age to a hot headed nobleman, who Andrew insisted that she had murdered, but fortunately Celine put the record straight. The Marquess Henri de Sévigné died in a dual (over some dispute involving a mistress) some few years after their marriage leaving the Madame a widow with two young children. She become one of the most prodigous letter writers of her age, leaving behind a record of more than 1500 letters. More notably for that time, she also never remarried, and reportedly spent her single life caring for her son and daughter and "entertaining" legions of suitors (said Andrew). She was truly a women ahead of her time. They really must have had a heck of time in the court of the Sun King.

Saturday, Andrew and I went for a run in the Bois de Vincennes, one of the two big parks that flank Paris like giant bannanas on its east and west sides. We are both recovering bicycle racing addicts... so going for a run is like a trip to the methadone clinic (queue "...the needle tears a hole... the old familiar sting...").

Sunday brought a tour of the sewers (egouts en francais ) and Naplolean's tomb. The sewers were pretty cool- Built in 1850 or so, but some tunnels go back 100s of years, but in a certain sense they were a bit of a dissapointment, as I think this particular section had been prettified for the tourists. Sure they stank, but I would have like, albeit briefly, to be absolutely repelled.

Certainly the romance and drama of them ala Jean Valjean flight's wasn't to be found under the industrial kleig lights used to light their innards. Apparently, Victor Hugo found great significance in the sewers of Paris seeing them as the "'conscience of the city'; a place where there were no secrets, where distinctions became insignificant and society could be observed in a clear light."

"Here, no more false appearance, no possible plastering, the filth takes off its shirt, absolute nakedness, rout of illusions and of mirages, nothing more but what it is . . . The last veil is rent. A sewer is a cynic. It tells all." (Les Miserables; Jean Valjean, Book II, ch 2)

I just thought they were cool.

Finally we went to Napolean's tomb which Andrew hadn't seen before. I think he would be happy at his final resting place (Napolean, not Andrew). I have never seen such a monuement.

Then it was a quick subway ride back to their flat and then on to Gare de Lyon to my TGV, which brought me back to Geneva. Overall, it was cool and I had great time. I like Paris. I could live there. Fantastic vibe to the place. The hum and throb of some neighborhoods remind me of ...I dunno... Brooklyn maybe.